Look at these ROCKS!!!
New Mexico
Hazy and slow-brained from our booster shots we drove from El Paso, Tx to Silver City New Mexico on December 8th. We arrived at our oasis on a ranch located halfway between the Gila Cliff Dwellings and Silver City, about 40 min away from any grocery store or services.
This area of the world has been beckoning for quite some time. It’s been inhabited and cultivated for over 10,000 years and the colonial name of New Mexico predates the designation of the country of Mexico by 223 years. New Mexico has the second largest population of indigenous peoples in the United States. Being surrounded by the diverse art, architecture and history that is and continues to be native to this area for a month was inspiring and transformative. “24 tribal groups continue to use the land for subsistence and culturally specific activities and have created a special relationship to the land and the places where they live. Apache, Navajo, and Pueblo Peoples of New Mexico have successfully maintained their distinctive ways of living in the face of federal assimilationist policies and threats to their land base and resources. This success is due to their ability to negotiate and navigate the areas of land use, nature’s resources, politics, economics, and culture in ways that ensure that their respective tribal governments and people not only survive but thrive.” While visiting previous dwellings, the accounts of what happened there was not told in the passive or past tense, but in the first person. Real people talking about their very real family. This seemingly small shift changes the perception of how these enduring cultures take part in society now as active, integral and a necessary component of society.
Silver City was more endearing that I anticipated, and I would gladly return. The landscape is beautiful, even in winter and the arts community is active and a major component of the downtown nucleus. We enjoyed several visits to the downtown area and a full day around the Gila cliff dwellings. And each pass over the mountain from where we were staying added welcome familiarity to the landscape. While in the area, controlled burns were taking place and being bathed in the gentle smell of piñon and pine smoke was delicious.
Silver City, Gila Cliff Dwellings
We continued north through the Mal Pais, the badlands of New Mexico, traveled along Historic Route 66 and to Albuquerque and thoroughly enjoyed the generous use of amazing green chilis on EVERYTHING! Fire roasted green sauce chilis on a burger, yes please! Locally made green chili bagel, so good! Green Chili on eggs, yum! best part was, most of the time the green chili sauce was garlic free, so I could enjoy to my tastebuds delight.
Mal Pais, Albuquerque
Then, on December 17th we reached Santa Fe via the scenic route. Along the way we stopped at Jemez Historic site which is a testament to the resiliency and connection the Jemez people have to their way of life and the determination they have to continue their traditions. Hint: when they didn’t like how they were being treated and taken advantage of by the mission fryers, they organized to burn the church they were forced to build during the Pueblo Revolt of 1680. The account and details provided at the stop was enthralling, and was a highlight of New Mexico. The Jemez Historic site website also provides a virtual tour and other great educational resources. The Jemez people continue to be dedicated to their land and are engaging in massive projects to combat climate change. In Addition to that, there is a call to shift past and present understanding of indigenous culture and archeology. "I always joke that Indians have been disappearing longer than almost any group in history," said Wilcox, author of The Pueblo Revolt and the Mythology of Conquest "What if archaeologists were asked to explain the continued presence of descendent communities 500 years after Columbus instead of their disappearance or marginality? That's a much more interesting story."
Jemez (Hay-mish) Historic Site
The next 10 days we spent with old Seattle tango friends Jaimes and Christa, who are currently teaching tango in New Mexico and online. Queso fell in love with their dog Gus Gus and they even spent a car ride or two sleeping touching each other (something Queso has never done with another dog). While with Jaimes and Christa we visited Taos and were hosted at and another tango dancer’s amazing creation Casa Gallina. We happily cooked dinner for our hosts with bison short ribs bought from the farmer’s market and enjoyed spending the holiday time at an unhurried, unstressed pace.
New Mexico was enchanting and beguiling even at it’s most arid times. Every aspect is intriguing and we hope to spend more time there in the future.
Santa Fe, Taos
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