Over the Border, and through the Woods
Oh Canada, you are big.
During our time at Apple Annie’s in Hew Hampshire we were able to complete a COVID test (negative, yay) and thus made plans to visit Canada. Our sites were aimed at Bay of Fundy which boasts multiple natural phenomenon including the highest tide in the world. On September 16th we packed up the truck and headed to the Canadian border at Calais Port of Entry. Wanting to make the crossing as easy as possible, we left dead weight and other items we thought might cause suspicion with the kind folks at Apple Annie’s. We were not diligent enough. After a 5 hour drive to the imaginary line diving Canada from the United States, we rolled up to the agent and answered “Yes” to having CBD products. In Seattle CBD is as easier to come by as cough syrup and you can purchase CBD at gas stations, pet stores and almost anywhere else you can think of. Turns out, it’s not allowed over the in any amount, even though it’s legalized on both sides of the border. The guy in the kiosk told us to pull over, surrender what we had, and we’d be given a receipt, then be on our way. Simple right? Wasn’t so simple. After walking into the building with what I could remember we had. I was sent back to get my ID, passport, Rene and such. After putting the fear of some gods in us (apparently it’s a $500 fine for each product found), we went and searched the truck with our whole life in it trying to remember any trace of CDB. Then the waiting. Next, two guards spent over an hour meticulously searching through all of our belongings which we had carefully organized. By the end of it we were deliriously hungry, with frazzled nerves and in need of comfort. With our belongings in a fantastic state of chaos, we headed to the closest, decent sounding restaurant we could find in the picturesque town of Saint John in New Brunswick.
By the time we were finished with dinner, the temperature had dropped, the wind had come up and the fog had rolled in. Neither of us were in the mood to drive the final 90 min to a campsite and put up a tent in the rain, wind and fog at 10pm. We found a hotel with a comfortable bed and slept and slept.
The morning brought a bright clear day and we enjoyed brunch and exploring the city. Then a short drive brought us to West River Camping. Upon arrival we decided to upgrade to a cozy cabin with a wood burning stove for our 4 night stay thanks to a couple of folks sending financial birthday gifts. We spent the next four days surrounded by beautiful breathtaking sights, eating Lobster and enjoying the crackle-pop of the wood burning stove. We were especially grateful for our upgrade as the evening temperatures dipped near freezing each night.
One reason to visit Canada was to visit a friend of Rene’s who lives between Quebec City and Montreal. The drive from where we stayed near Bay of Fundy to their residence is 10 hours without stops, on a good day, without traffic. So we broke it up with a day to ourselves, without much to do in Fredericton. The neighbors across the street from our rented room where long deceased and resting in the Old Graveyard (which I took no pictures of). It was a perspective shift seeing many graves commemorating British Soldiers. Something I have yet to see in the States.
Once we reached Grandy, we were warmly welcomed by the Conk family. Chris (called Conk by friends) retains his US citizenship and teaches English at University. During our stay we compared Conk’s, Julie’s and their two teenagers take on the pandemic. Different perspectives and hearing first hand how another country responded was a good exercise. Within the family there are varying viewpoints regarding COVID and what the best course of action is. It makes me grateful that we are aligned on our views on the topic and many others.
A highlight of our time with the Conk’s was traveling to a small Oasis Julie had created for herself as a way to get away without violating curfew. On the way we stopped at an outdoor sculpture park called Essarts. Julie is close with the couple that operates Essarts, regarding them as chosen family. We were lucky enough to run into the proprietor, Pierre Tessier, and be given a tour and explanation of some of his favorite pieces. After, he showed us around the workshop where the artists from all over the world come to create their sculptures. The house and workshop started out small and built piece by piece. It was very inspiring to see what determination and community can accomplish over time and with persistence.
From the 1.5 kilometer sculpture park we made our way into the back corner of some property that Julie’s family has owned for some time. There, she has a camper, a compost toilet and other basics set up for what you’d need for a long weekend getaway. We sat by the river, with the sound of cattle grazing in the distance and enjoyed local wine, cider, pate and other snacks. It was a good day.
Overall Canada is vast, beautiful and yes, courteous. But that doesn't mean it’s without problems. Much like the United States there is a discrepancy between the government’s claims to support and improve relationships with indigenous peoples and action. Over the last several months thousands of unmarked graves have been revealed from the time of residential schools. Major conflicts are ongoing regarding sand tar pipelines crossing unneeded territories of indigenous peoples. Far too long the people who were on this continent first have been thought of only in the past tense. They are still here and fighting for the future of all living beings. It’s past time to finally listen.
